Coorg - in the hills

Coorg

For two nights and one day we have been in the highlands of Karnataka, a large state in South India, at the Orange County Resort. This is at an altitude of about 2700 to 3000 feet in what is known as the Western Ghats (ghat=mountain), a range that runs along the western edge of India. Once a British-owned plantation, it is now in its third generation of Indian ownership. Few American or British groups come to Coorg. It is not easy to get to, but the five-hour very curvy, very hilly bus ride was worth it (easy for me to say since I did not get carsick).

The resort is set in a 300 acre coffee plantation that is at enough altitude to also produce commercial crops of ginger, black peppercorns, cardamom, and cinnamon. We're told coffee grows at altitudes of 800-1200 ft and tea at higher altitudes). The lush tropical surroundings and birdsong here may be the ultimate contrast with Mumbai's urban buzz. Everything here calls to me to chill out. Our quarters are a thatch-roofed cottage with a large living room and small kitchen/dining area. There is a large bedroom (complete with AC, ceiling fan, and mosquito net) and huge bathroom. All of that is bordered on one side by a wall of French doors to a private immersion pool (with jacuzzi option) and a walled veranda with lounge chairs and chaises. The pool is not heated but this time of year it feels refreshing midday. The place is stocked with snacks, fruit, a mini-bar and fab coffee.

So why leave the house? Well, there are attractive opportunities to learn the coffee- growing process, go birding, attend performances of local dance troupes and other cultural activities, visit a village, learn about responsible eco-tourism, and eat far too many excellent South Indian dishes. The all-veg breakfast option at The Plaintain Leaf invited such excess I chose to skip lunch today.

My only excuse is that my appetite built up on a pre-breakfast walk with the resort naturalist to a village within the plantation. The resort subsidizes the village by providing potentially lifetime employment (with opportunities to improve in skills and knowledge and earn more money). Both men and women work on the plantation, though not all the employees reside in the village. One month out of every year the village floods when the Chauvery River rises as much as 30 feet due to monsoon rains. The resort provides temporary shelter and helps the families to repair and return to their homes for the remainder of the year. This brings to mind the old Japanese movie, "Woman In The Sand" and I wonder, why don't people move away from predictable disaster? I suppose I could ask the same question of people who keep rebuilding on the Gulf Coast.

My favorite factoids from this afternoon's talk are total "Milkys," a term my family will understand. They are like a big DUH. First, all those expensive red, green, white, and black peppercorns are from the same plant. The difference in taste among them, for those with discerning palettes, is how they are processed. Second, "shade-grown" coffee does not involve tents over the coffee plants. It involves planting trees like the Australian silver oak (imported for this purpose) or the rosewood tree, both of which grow tall and offer filtered light for the coffee and a place for the pepper vine to grow. Two mysteries solved by one naturalist.

The only downside of this place is that the auyervedic spa had no, that is NO, openings today. Spa Rule #1: Book ahead. I suppose this is just as well because after reading the entire spa menu several times in detail I still could not decide among the various outrageous bundles of benefits claimed for each and every treatment (including weight reduction). Maybe I will have better luck at the next resort, both making a choice and securing an appointment. Back into the pool before the next hike